Bertrand Lasserre, Thépenier Pharma & Cosmetics: “We are experts in ‘Safe Beauty’!”
Founded in 1964, Thépenier Pharma & Cosmetics (TP&C) is a French OEM/ODM manufacturer (also a pharmaceutical CDMO) specializing in liquid, semi-solid (paste-like), and powder formulations, offering a full-service approach ranging from formulation to release and shipment of the finished product (development and formulation, industrialization, manufacturing, packaging, quality control, regulatory support, batch release, and transportation). The company has been owned since 2000 by the Japanese group Nippon Shikizai Inc. In January 2017, Thépenier Pharma & Cosmetics acquired Orléans Cosmetics, based in Saint-Cyr-en-Val near Orléans, which has since become Nippon Shikizai France and was gradually transferred to its parent company. TP&C operates two manufacturing sites in Normandy and maintains marketing and sales offices in the Paris region. The company employs approximately 180 people and generates revenue of around 30 million euros, with over 60% coming from exports across all continents. It operates in environments certified to GMP Pharma, FDA OTC, ISO 22716, and ISO 14001 standards.
“The past two years have been primarily devoted to consolidating our industrial infrastructure,” explains Bertrand Lasserre, CEO of TP&C, “as well as accelerating our continuous improvement efforts (modernizing certain equipment, optimizing workflows, and enhancing the robustness and automation of our industrial facilities).” The year 2026 is clearly focused on growth, with several industrialization projects, mass-market launches, and strategic initiatives that will facilitate the expansion of our capacity, the modernization and automation of most of our production facilities, and the enhancement of our infrastructure’s reliability (maintenance, equipment deployments, and continuous improvement). We also place particular importance on the training and skill development of our operators and on the standardization of work methods, in order to ensure long-term performance. »
The international context and trade tensions stemming from the conflict in the Middle East have created additional uncertainty for the company, whether regarding its business development, production costs, availability, or lead times for certain categories of raw materials and components. “Relationships with our customers are sometimes complicated as a result,” explains Bertrand Lasserre, “and we have lost some well-advanced projects due to these protectionist policies.”
“Generally speaking, to develop ambitious investment plans, manufacturers need visibility and legislative and regulatory predictability. In this regard, the French government’s tendency to over-transpose European standards and trade tensions with the United States are particularly impactful and restrictive. But even under these circumstances, we work hand in hand with our clients, who place great trust in us, enabling us to overcome these challenges constructively. Furthermore, our business model—based on a strong industrial presence in Europe, a diversified international client portfolio, a rigorous product mix, and the flexibility of our supply chain—helps limit exposure to any single risk. The priority remains to anticipate regulatory requirements, adapt supply scenarios, and maintain constant dialogue with our partners, in order to preserve the continuity, quality, and competitiveness of our service offering and, consequently, of their products on the market. ”
In the beauty market, Thépenier Pharma & Cosmetics aims to distinguish itself by applying “pharma-driven” standards to cosmetic development, meaning high standards for the efficacy, safety, and stability of formulations. Industrially, this translates into above-average quality standards, expertise in scaling up projects, and the ability to be constantly proactive in seeking to optimize industrial processes. “We identify ourselves as experts in Safe Beauty,” emphasizes Bertrand Lasserre, “a concept we developed and structured over five years ago.”
Environment: Horizon 2030!
The two factories in Normandy are ISO 14001 certified, and management has committed to a trajectory of reducing carbon emissions (Scopes 1, 2, and 3) as well as the water footprint by 2030. “This approach,” he explains, “requires the commitment of all our partners—both customers and suppliers—and relies on the implementation of monitoring indicators, as well as regular measurement of our carbon intensity. Beyond these commitments, we are actively working to improve energy efficiency, which is now integrated into our criteria for selecting industrial equipment. We are also taking steps to rapidly electrify our vehicle fleet and to progressively integrate environmental considerations into our value chain. Many view environmental standards as a form of constraint and a handicap for French and European manufacturers. We see them as an opportunity to innovate, to stand out, and even to reinvent ourselves—which is vital in the industrial sector—and thus to build long-term customer loyalty. It is no less true that, if they wish to preserve a thriving industrial base in Europe, our leaders must ensure oversight of products manufactured abroad that enter European territory and strive to guarantee a semblance of economic fairness when these products have been manufactured under social, fiscal, and/or environmental standards completely disconnected from European requirements in these areas.”
In line with this approach, TP&C has also implemented a “Responsible Purchasing Charter,” which structures its relationship with suppliers around stricter requirements regarding ethics, transparency, respect for working conditions, and environmental performance. This initiative aligns with the sectoral standards of the cosmetics industry and aims to encourage the entire supply chain to adopt responsible practices. “It also includes,” explains Bertrand Lasserre, “a particular focus on local sourcing and, where relevant, the relocation of sourcing for certain components used in the manufacture of the products we produce for our clients, in order to limit logistical impacts and contribute to strengthening European industrial ecosystems. In this regard, we are also seeking to promote the reindustrialization of France and Europe, a subject that is particularly close to my heart and which I advocate for daily within the professional associations where I serve as a director!”
Regarding packaging, the reduction of virgin plastic, the integration of recycled or upcycled materials, and the constant evolution of regulatory requirements demand heightened vigilance. “There are two approaches depending on the project,” explains Bertrand Lasserre. “Either the packaging is selected directly by the client, or it is selected by our Purchasing department based on a client brief or the project’s technical, industrial, and regulatory constraints. In all cases, our role is to encourage, as early as possible, the consideration of environmental factors, while ensuring the technical soundness of the chosen option (formula/container compatibility, robustness of industrial validations, quality and regulatory compliance, and process adaptation if necessary). ”
The “Core Active Beauty” concept and the mascara focus…
The Core Active Beauty concept, selected for the CosmoTrends at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, illustrates the company’s formulation approach and its recent developments.
“These are formula bases based on biomimetic lamellar emulsion technology,” explains Constance Vigne, head of communications, “whose structure mimics that of the skin, thereby promoting better affinity and bioavailability of the active ingredients that can be incorporated into them.”
These bases, formulated without added active ingredients, nevertheless demonstrate clinically proven efficacy thanks to a rigorous selection of excipients.
“Three ranges have been developed—HYDRA (hydration), PURE (anti-pollution), and YOUTH (anti-aging)—to offer customers ready-to-use bases that can be customized to their needs (active ingredients, fragrances), while ensuring their stability. This approach accelerates product development and time-to-market while ensuring a high level of performance and safety. ”
Among the mascara formulas presented by Thépenier Pharma & Cosmetics is the “Lash Boost Mascara,” a hybrid formula combining makeup performance with eyelash care. “It provides volume, definition, and curl, while helping to strengthen and protect lashes on a daily basis. Its plant-based formula forms a flexible film that ensures long-lasting, smudge-proof wear, for visibly longer and thicker lashes. ”
