Italy: The Ancorotti phenomenon

In just over fifteen years, the Ancorotti Group’s journey has been a model of its kind. Founded in 2009 by Renato Ancorotti and his daughter Enrica, Ancorotti Cosmetics S.p.A. has managed to establish itself in less than a decade as one of the world’s leading subcontractors in the field of makeup and skincare. Today, the group includes not only Ancorotti Cosmetics but also Ancorotti Perfumes, a new entity specializing in perfume production, and Cosmoproject, the latest acquisition in the skincare sector. We look back with Renato Ancorotti on a story that, whatever people may say, only Italians often know how to write. This year, the group has a turnover of nearly €250 million, employs nearly 1,000 people, and has a production area of 50,000 square meters in Crema, south of Milan.

What is the recipe for success?

Renato Ancorotti: First and foremost, our growth is based on solid foundations. It began with my personal journey in the cosmetics subcontracting sector, which started in 1984 with the creation of a small manufacturing laboratory with only three employees. The adventure that would come to be known as Gamma Croma lasted twenty years. When I decided to sell my shares (now Chromavis), Gamma Croma had become a major subcontracting company with a production area of 20,000 square meters, a workforce of 300 people, and annual sales of €50 million. It was also the first factory to be set up in Crema, south of Milan.
I should point out that when I created Ancorotti Cosmetics in 2009, it was a real challenge given the uncertain financial situation caused by the 2008 crisis.

In 2009, you made a single choice: to produce mascara!

Renato Ancorotti: That’s right! We decided to specialize in the production of mascara, a highly sophisticated product based on a good synergy between the formula, the brush, and the squeegee, and whose development requires real know-how. We made it a flagship product, which allowed us to conquer this strategic niche.
Our customers include some of the world’s biggest players, with a market share of over half of the mascara sold in the EMEA region.
Every year, we transform over 6,000 tons of bulk material into emulsion.
To do this, we have 30 turbo emulsifiers of different capacities, the largest of which has a capacity of 4 tons.
In terms of filling, we are capable of filling 300,000 mascara units per shift, which is an enormous quantity. If you laid all the tubes produced by the factory in a year end to end, they would stretch from the North Pole to the South Pole!

Over the years, even though mascara remains your flagship product, your range has gradually expanded to include the entire makeup segment, skincare, and now perfume!

Renato Ancorotti: In 2017, we acquired the former Olivetti typewriter factory in Crema. A true piece of industrial archaeology, the building, designed in the 1960s by architects Marco Zanuso and Renzo Piano, had been abandoned for decades. A 30,000 m² urban eyesore in the heart of the city has been healed and now houses a sustainable factory, converted without taking up any space, where solutions and innovations have been implemented to reduce energy requirements and emissions, while improving safety and quality of work. The production and logistics departments were inaugurated in January 2019 and we moved our headquarters to new premises in May 2021.
It should be noted that, since 2020, we have been using electricity exclusively from renewable sources and, in 2021, we joined the GoGreen Climate Neutral program, which has enabled us to calculate and offset the carbon dioxide emissions generated by our logistics operations with DHL by financing internationally recognized climate protection projects.
Since 2023, with DHL GoGreen Plus, we have been investing in sustainable aviation fuel (SAF).
In terms of diversification, in November 2024 we launched Ancorotti Perfumes, dedicated to the production of fragrances for third parties.
Located in this former industrial area that belonged to Olivetti in Crema and very close to Ancorotti Cosmetics, the factory has an annual production capacity of 50 million units. An important aspect of the project was the partnership with EuroItalia, a major player in the luxury beauty sector, internationally recognized for its expertise in the world of perfumes. It is worth noting that at the heart of this new factory is the Fragrantiarium, which houses a collection of over 200 products.
Finally, this year we acquired Cosmoproject, a leading subcontractor in the field of skin care products based in Parma.
This integration will strengthen our presence in the skincare sector, expanding and complementing our offering.
The goal is to become a complete partner for our customers, offering solutions covering the entire beauty segment.

What about international expansion?

Renato Ancorotti: The figures speak for themselves: we work with 400 customers in 50 countries and global distribution networks. Nearly 90% of our turnover is generated internationally. The United States, France, and Germany are among our main commercial destinations, but there is no denying that “Made in Italy” remains a trump card!
Our portfolio is incredibly diverse, ranging from large multinationals to independent brands, not to mention the latest brands launched by influencers. Whatever the positioning—mass market or luxury—we give the same attention to every customer. We develop tailor-made proposals in line with each customer’s visual identity and target price, but that’s not all: we also offer valuable analysis of trends and target markets, design advice, primary and secondary packaging development, regulatory support, and after-sales service.
We like to define ourselves as a complete solution provider because, thanks to our 360° service, we deliver finished products that are ready to go on the shelf.