Karine Melloul, MS BEAUTiLAB: Finding the Right Balance!

The year 2025 ended with relatively stable growth for the French firm, against a backdrop of transformation in the beauty market and changes in its client portfolio. This momentum was driven in particular by the growth of emerging and independent brands, which continue to represent a particularly dynamic segment.
“This year,” explains Karine Melloul, CEO, “we’re seeing this trend consolidate, in an environment marked by changing consumer expectations, the search for greater added value, and an acceleration of market transformations.” The company is expected to announce a venture in the United States in a few weeks. Here’s why.

2024 appears to be a turning point in the evolution of MS BEAUTiLAB.

Karine Melloul: With the new management team, we have embarked on a transition and transformation of the company, the first results of which are already visible, both in the evolution of our client portfolio and in the development of our expertise and our offerings. And the last two years have been marked by significant changes at MS BEAUTiLAB, in terms of our DNA, client portfolio, technical expertise, and commercial presence.
In particular, we have strengthened our capabilities in complex technical and strategic areas, such as sun protection (SPF) and OTC products, while revitalizing and expanding certain long-standing areas of expertise, particularly in the field of fragranced products.
We have also strengthened our collaboration with partners in Asia to complement our know-how and gain access to complementary expertise and technologies.
We have also expanded our commercial presence in the United States, a strategic market for us. This momentum now enables us to work with some of the largest brands in the U.S. market, as well as with particularly promising emerging brands that are driving rapid change in the beauty industry. This diversity of clients is a real asset and allows us to stay closely attuned to new trends, new consumer behaviors, and market expectations.
On the industrial front, we draw on expertise and know-how across multiple sites—with a presence in France, Switzerland, and the United States—as well as on a strong partnership in Asia. This international organization allows us to combine local expertise, flexibility, and access to complementary skills and technologies.
Of course, customs duties and, more broadly, changes in regulations related to international trade are issues we monitor very closely, given that the rules are constantly evolving.
The impact on our business is naturally linked to the various markets in which we operate, particularly with regard to exports to the United States as well as the importation of certain raw materials and components.
However, the necessary strategic planning and decision-making were initiated well in advance, allowing us to anticipate these changes and limit their impact on our business. Our international organization and our ability to draw on various sites and partners are also assets in this context.

How has this translated into concrete actions in terms of product launches?

Karine Meloul: In recent years, we have participated in the development and launch of numerous key products, and we continue to support our clients on successful projects and to manufacture best-selling products.
In terms of our own innovation, we were notably a finalist at the MakeUp in Paris trade show with Lip Tint Essence, a two-phase formula that combines the best of lip ink and lip oil. This product perfectly illustrates our approach to innovation: creating new sensory experiences and hybrid products that bridge the gap between skincare and makeup.
While complexion care has been our traditional area of expertise, we now possess strong capabilities across several categories. This multi-category approach allows us to create synergies between different areas of expertise and fuel our innovation, particularly in sun protection (SPF), OTC products, transforming textures, two-phase formulas, and new formats.
We also collaborate closely with selected partners, who provide us with access to active ingredient complexes and innovative technologies that we can integrate into our product developments and innovation pipeline.
It is this combination of formulation expertise, industrial capabilities, technological partnerships, and an understanding of evolving consumer expectations that enables us to support our clients in developing products that are increasingly innovative, effective, and distinctive.

Environmental constraints, pressure regarding the use of plastic-based packaging… a journey that requires constant adaptation!

Karine Meloul: We anchor our approach in a comprehensive sustainability strategy, with the goal of balancing environmental commitment, product performance, and sensory requirements without compromising the consumer experience.
We closely monitor regulatory developments, particularly the European Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), to best anticipate their implications and support our clients in their future developments.
Clear objectives have been defined to drive and structure this initiative. Several initiatives are already underway, notably regarding the assessment of our carbon footprint and the establishment of a reduction trajectory, eco-design, responsible sourcing, certifications, and the optimization of formulations and manufacturing processes.
We also work closely with our suppliers and partners to stay at the forefront of their latest innovations in more sustainable solutions and to identify technologies and materials that can help improve the environmental impact of our products.
Our approach to sustainability is intended to be comprehensive. It must be integrated throughout the entire product development chain, from the selection of raw materials and formulation to packaging and industrial processes.
As for packaging—and plastic packaging in particular—we are indeed facing increasing pressure from regulatory, environmental, and economic factors. Rising costs of certain raw materials and other materials have also led to significant price increases from some suppliers.
However, we seek to limit the impact of these changes as much as possible through negotiations with our partners and suppliers. When these price increases cannot be avoided, we strive to view them as temporary and to maintain regular dialogue with our partners so that we can reassess prices when market conditions and supply costs improve again.
At the same time, we are evolving our approach and packaging solutions, notably by exploring the use of post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials, alternative materials, and concepts that reduce resource consumption.
We are also working on formulation innovations, particularly around water-free or concentrated products, which can help reduce a product’s overall environmental footprint.
The challenge today is to strike the right balance between sustainability, product protection, industrial feasibility, regulatory requirements, cost control, and the consumer experience.