IL Cosmetics: €25 million in investment over two years!

IL Cosmetics, a Luxembourg-based company, has had a remarkable journey over the past twenty years. Its team has successfully transformed its product portfolio, shifting from a business primarily focused on nail polish production to one where over 55% of its offerings are in the makeup sector—specifically for the eyes, lips, and face (powders and foundation). “And in five years,” says Jean-François Harpes, its President, “this segment will reach 80%! At Cosmoprof Bologna, we’re showcasing a range of innovations reflecting this trend in product development, featuring cutting-edge formulations, intuitive sensory experiences, and solutions designed to help brands move more quickly from concept to market.”
The company aims to double its revenue in the near future. For this year, several projects are underway, notably the launch of new products in the liquid foundation category as well as the expansion of its multi-category offering. Details…
Il s’agit pour la firme de doubler son chiffre d’affaires dans un avenir proche. Pour cette année, plusieurs projets sont en cours avec notamment le lancement de nouveautés dans le domaine du teint liquide mais aussi le développement de son offre multi-catégories. Précisions…

The company was founded in 1984 with its initial expertise in the production of nail polish and, more generally, nail care products. “Over the years,” explains Jean-François Harpes, “we have gradually expanded our expertise, particularly starting in 2003 with the development of eye and lip makeup products.”
Today, the company’s portfolio covers all major makeup categories (nails, eyes, lips, and now complexion). “This diversification is proof of our ambition,” insists Jean-François Harpes, “which is to become a true multi-category partner for beauty brands.”

The group, which employs some 600 people—including about 100 dedicated to product development laboratories, quality control, research, and color expertise—now operates several production and filling sites, with its headquarters, laboratories, and a production site in Luxembourg; a laboratory and production site in Italy; and two filling units in Poland and Bulgaria.
The business is largely international in scope, with a significant portion of revenue generated from full-service offerings not only in Europe but also worldwide for brands present in major global markets.
Total investments over the past two years: 25 million euros.

Acquisitions and Industrial Optimization

The past two years have been particularly transformative for the group, marked by both a strengthening of its innovation capacity and its industrial footprint.
“Among the key milestones,” explains Jean-François Harpès, “was the 2024 acquisition of an Italian firm, Cosmetion—now IL Cosmetics Italy—which allows us to expand our development capabilities and integrate new technologies, particularly in the field of powders.
We have significantly increased the production capacity of this powder manufacturing facility, and by the end of this year, the workforce will reach forty people. We have also continued our industrial investments by expanding our production sites, particularly in Luxembourg and Italy, to increase our capacity and support our customers’ growth.”

These investments extend beyond industrial infrastructure. The Group has also invested heavily in human capital and its organizational structure by strengthening its teams and optimizing its internal structure, notably through the creation of “business units” dedicated to different product categories, to enable teams to advance in parallel across each area of expertise, accelerate innovation, and better support brands on increasingly complex, multi-category projects.

“In this spirit,” emphasizes Jean-François Harpes, “we have also developed this ‘Ready to Market’ approach by offering full-service solutions entirely developed by our teams. A system designed to support brands seeking faster innovation cycles. These concepts combine genuine expertise in formulation as well as packaging design and storytelling, to offer complete beauty projects, ready to be launched.”
This approach is part of a “Fast Track” strategy tailored to brands wishing to quickly revitalize their offerings or respond more swiftly to market changes. These solutions cover all categories developed by IL Cosmetics (eyes, lips, face, and nails).

Liquid Foundation

In the “products” section, a highlight at Cosmoprof Bologna is the launch of “Skinday,” a new line of liquid foundations and the company’s first foray into liquid foundation technologies.
Within this category, the company will also present “Flex & Go,” a hybrid powder product combining a gel phase with highly sensorial powders. The formula transforms upon application, melting into the skin to provide even coverage and a multidirectional luminous effect without the powdery finish typical of traditional powders.

“At the heart of all these launches,” notes Aurélie Ignacollo, Group Marketing Director, “is ‘GentleGel,’ our gel system positioned as the first gel polish that won’t damage your nails. Thanks to our “Nail Safe” technology, the formula is based on a carefully balanced blend of oligomers and monomers designed to provide strong adhesion while respecting the natural nail. Dermatologically tested, the system was validated by 84% of testers for helping to preserve nail health.

The system is built around an application process that includes preparing the nails for optimal adhesion, a base enriched with vitamins and D-panthenol (provitamin B5), highly pigmented color gel layers available in over 400 shades, and a no-wipe top coat offering a glossy, plumping finish with wear lasting up to 21 days.”

At the same time, the company will also present new nail care solutions inspired by skincare, designed to strengthen the nails and improve their overall condition. At the heart of this approach is the “MimicCeramide Strengthener & Oil” duo, a serum containing 10% active ingredients with transformative textures, including innovative gel-in-oil formulas, offering targeted care that strengthens and protects nails while enhancing the nail care ritual. “We are also launching a new generation of mascaras and glosses,” explains Aurélie Ignacollo, “backed by tests focusing in particular on lip hydration levels and the ‘volume’ effect of the mascara, enabling brands to communicate performance based on measurable data.”

Finally, the company will present four new limited-edition concepts, one of which is titled “Pepti Plump,” a peptide-enriched collection featuring mascara, a lip plumper, nail polish, and face powder. The second introduces aquaporins into a makeup line for the first time. This powerful active ingredient, whose discovery was recognized with a Nobel Prize, acts as a hydration booster, providing longer-lasting hydration than the traditional effect of glycerin.