Symposium on “Future-Proof Materials For Beauty Packaging”: What are the challenges and what are the results?

This symposium brought together material suppliers, packaging manufacturers, brands, journalists, and consultants from the ecosystem for the first time in Paris on February 4.
The main objective of this five-session conference was to analyze how brands in the beauty industry can preserve the desirability of their products while achieving their sustainable development goals, meeting growing consumer expectations in terms of CSR, and complying with increasingly stringent regulations.
The Symposium, which was positioned as a satellite event of Paris Packaging Week, was designed and hosted by Gérald Martines, President of In-Signes, with the participation of Jean-Yves Bourgeois, President of JYB Conseil and publisher of the Full Beauty Suppliers website. Mr. Josh Brooks, Director of Paris Packaging Week, warmly welcomed the participants at the start of the morning.
A series of conferences was complemented by an overview of beauty marketing by Ms. Éva Lagarde, Founder of RE/SOURCES, on how brands transform R&D language into relevant marketing claims and position themselves between innovation, sustainability, and consumer trends.

First, we had to remind everyone of the issues at stake!

Gérald Martines: Indeed, Judith Fiedler, CEO of oneRD GmbH, began by reminding us of the obligations arising from the implementation of the PPWR (Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation) in the European Union.
It should be noted that this regulation requires (among other things) that all packaging placed on the market from 2030 onwards must be recyclable in one of the established channels. In practical terms, this limits the choice of materials, requires packaging to be made of a single material or easily separable, and detectable by automated sorting systems using near-infrared polymer signatures, which constrains the choice of designs and finishes.
I then reviewed the different recycling methods (thermomechanical, chemical, and biological) as well as the different existing sources for polymer production (oil, biomass, waste, and CO2), with the advantages and limitations of each technology, particularly in terms of reducing the carbon footprint, and their level of industrial maturity. These different approaches are not in competition with each other; on the contrary, they are complementary and should all contribute in a meaningful way to the circular economy.
Mr. Paul-Henry Carli from Eastman then presented advanced polyester recycling solutions (Renew range) that are now mature and have industrial production capacity. The various chemical recycling processes were presented, with an energy footprint that varies depending on the process in question and the level at which it occurs in the polymer production chain. These solutions have already been adopted by major brands and can be found on store shelves.
Isabelle Uhl from DOW presented recent advances in the production of recycled or bio-based ionomer resin (Surlyn™), their advantages, and their applications. This material is widely used, particularly for high-end closure applications. These processes are also industrially mature and are used in packaging available on the market.
Finally, Maria Murcia Valderana from AVANTIUM presented PEF (releaf®), a new material from the polyester family, similar to PET, which is entirely bio-based and recyclable. This material is positioned as an alternative or complement to PET in its countless applications, particularly in bottle manufacturing.

Next up were alternative materials!

Gérald Martines: I began by pointing out that plastics, despite their poor image, remain essential in packaging, particularly for functions such as dispensing systems, caps, applicators, etc. The challenge is to use them wisely and responsibly.
Mr. Alain Pierron from FAIVELEY TECH presented the challenges and opportunities that bio-based substitutes for plastics present in industrial production, and showcased numerous projects using materials from the Finnish start-up Sulapac for prestigious brands.
Corrado Fioroni from the Italian company mPACKTING (Minelli Group) presented a range of upcycled materials made from wood and cork industry residues, compounded with third-generation biopolymers derived from bacterial fermentation. These materials combine functionality similar to that of traditional plastics with total biodegradability without toxic residues, and constitute very long-term carbon sinks.
Finally, Helen Yang from CLEMENT PACKAGING detailed relevant (and irrelevant) use cases for biodegradable materials and presented an exclusive material made from upcycled bamboo combined with a biodegradable biopolymer. It should be noted that this material is commercially available and has been adopted by committed niche brands for pots and sticks.

What about metals?

Gérald Martines: Indeed, what about metals, and more specifically aluminum and zamak, in beauty packaging applications, which are intrinsically perceived as luxurious? What are their advantages in terms of regulations?
First, Mr. Thomas Thomas Diezinger, President of TNT GROUP, presented the various complementary technologies for processing aluminum and zamak, from stamping to casting and cold forging, and their respective characteristics and advantages, as well as the technologies developed by the company to offer finishing qualities suitable for high-end applications.
David Gregorio from AXILONE MÉTAL then showed how CO2e emissions are broken down throughout the aluminum production phases and highlighted the advantages of post-consumer recycled aluminum. He also presented the company’s single-material (100% aluminum) products, aluminum and plastic being the only materials that can be used to make single-material packaging.
Claire Terscartes from SEGEDE INDUSTRIE presented the enormous amount of work she has done to “rehabilitate” zamak, whose environmental footprint in databases had been greatly overestimated due to a lack of qualified data, and to enable the recognition of this material’s recyclability, which makes it fully compliant with regulations.

Finally, it was the turn of cellulose and mycelium.

Gérald Martines: I wanted to provide an overview of the many applications of paper and cellulose pulp in packaging in general, and I analyzed the current trend toward “papering” beauty packaging, highlighting the fundamental challenge of functionalizing cellulose, which is essential for giving this material the necessary barrier properties, a vast field of R&D. I also presented emerging applications for mycelium.
On this point, Mr. Benjamin Cohen from KNOLL PRINTING & PACKAGING presented cold-molded cellulose pulp packaging designs, now adopted by the most demanding brands, and explained the challenge posed by this technology in moving from secondary to primary packaging, which requires taking into account direct contact with the formula and barrier properties, illustrated by an example of a very high-end product.
Ms. Estelle Doineau and Mr. Arnaud Lancelot from (RE)SET / PULP IN ACTION, along with Virginie Recoura from CHANEL, presented the work of the Pulp in Action consortium, which brings together some twenty brands and suppliers with the aim of bringing cellulose-based solutions to a mainstream industrial level by solving the problem of direct contact with the formula and its protection in four types of common applications.
Finally, Rémi Laurant from EMBELIUM, who introduced himself as a “packaging grower,” demonstrated the qualities and potential of mycelium in secondary packaging applications. The limited capabilities and high labor content of packaging currently restrict its use to niche applications, but its unique qualities are attracting committed brands.

Two lively round tables!

Of particular note were the two round tables at the end of the morning and the end of the afternoon. The first was devoted to packaging manufacturers who are committed to ecological transition and the implications of regulation. The potential of new materials and customer demands were discussed by Aurélie Balmes from MEIYUME, Pierre-Antoine Henry from QUADPACK-TEXEN, Denis Maurin from HCT, and Nicolas Piffault from the POCHET group.
The second round table, moderated by Éva Lagarde from RE/SOURCES, provided the perspective of both brands and a full-service company committed to ecological and circular transition on the implications of regulations and the potential of new materials, as well as their vision for the future evolution of the materials used in their respective portfolios.
In attendance were Andrea Bray from the INTERCOS group, Jérôme Liard from PUIG, Caroline Mauffré from the YVES ROCHER group, and Virginie Recoura from CHANEL.

They liked it and they said so!

The participants unanimously agreed that the day was a success thanks to topics focused on current issues, high-quality presentations, and fruitful discussions.

“It has been a fantastic symposium today organized by Gerald Martines, great discussion across the value chain to develop together future-proof materials for the beauty industry.”
Paul-Henri Carli, Eastman

“Thank you again for this day, I found the discussions really rich and informative.”
Maryline Hurtado, Michelin Polymers.

“A big thank you to Gerald Martines for curating such a meaningful program.”
Judith Fiedler, oneRD

“A big thank you to Gerald Martines and Jean-Yves Bourgeois for the excellent organization and thoughtful program.”
María Alejandra Murcia, Avantium

IMPORTANT! TO RECEIVE ALL THE PRESENTATIONS 
For those who were unable to attend the event, a complete summary of the presentations is available from Gérald Martines: gerald.martines@in-signes.com.